Everything that a facial, neck and décolleté peel in aesthetic medicine can do for you

20 novembre 2024

Dans cet article :

- Chemical peels are one of the essential facial treatments in aesthetic medicine, performed to improve skin quality and treat numerous skin imperfections. This treatment involves applying a solution of chemicals to the skin of the face, causing controlled exfoliation of the superficial or deep layers of the epidermis, which removes dead skin cells. It is a versatile treatment, suitable for different skin types and aesthetic needs.

Definition and principle of peeling

The term « peeling » comes from the English word « to peel », which means « to remove the outer layer ». This « chemical peel » method causes controlled exfoliation of the skin, removing dead cells from the epidermis and stimulating cell renewal. This exfoliation induces skin regeneration, revealing smoother, brighter and more even skin, resulting in improved skin quality.

Chemical peels also act on the deeper layers of the skin by stimulating collagen and elastin production. These essential proteins contribute to skin firmness and elasticity, while reducing visible signs of ageing such as wrinkles, fine lines and sagging skin.

Why have a chemical peel?

Facial peeling is a treatment suitable for:

– Revitalise your complexion: By removing impurities and dead skin cells, it restores radiance and freshness to the skin.
– Evens out skin tone: It reduces pigmentation spots, minor scars and skin irregularities.
– Reduce imperfections: Effective against enlarged pores, acne, blackheads and acne scars.
– Treat signs of ageing: It reduces fine lines, firms the skin and improves its overall texture.
– Corrects sun damage: It acts on age spots and skin thickened by prolonged exposure to the sun.

Are there different types of chemical peels in aesthetic medicine?

- Peels are classified into three main categories according to their intensity and depth of action.

- Superficial peel:
  - - - Acidic products act on the outermost layer of the epidermis as an exfoliant. It is a gentle peel.
      - Substances used: Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as glycolic or lactic acid.
      - Indications: Ideal for dullness, minor imperfections and dehydrated skin.
      - Recovery: Little or no social exclusion. A slight peeling effect to remove dead skin may occur.
  Medium peel:
  - - - The acids penetrate as far as the papillary dermis.
      - Substance used: Trichloroacetic acid (TCA).
      - Indications: Suitable for treating imperfections such as pigmentation spots, superficial scars and fine lines.
      - Recovery: Redness and flaking for one week to ten days after the peel session.
  Deep peel:
  - - - The active ingredient reaches the deeper layers of the skin for complete regeneration.
      - Substance used: Phenol.
      - Indications: Treats deep wrinkles, severe scars and marked irregularities.
      - Recovery: Requires significant and prolonged social exclusion (up to several weeks). The results are spectacular and long-lasting. This peel is not performed at Maison Magnifisens.

What happens during a facial peel treatment?

1 – Preliminary consultation: The doctor analyses the patient’s skin and determines the appropriate type of peel. This step is crucial to avoid contraindications and ensure optimal results.
2 – Skin preparation: A preparation based on specific creams may be necessary to ensure uniform penetration of the active ingredients.
3 – Application of the solution: The chemical substance is applied evenly to the skin. The duration varies depending on the acid molecule used and the desired depth.
4 – Aftercare: After a peel, it is essential to apply moisturising creams and protect the skin with sunscreen to avoid complications such as hyperpigmentation.

What are the benefits of facial peels?

Visible and lasting results: Improvements are noticeable after the first session for superficial peels and after a few weeks for medium peels.
Versatility: The peel can be customised to meet a variety of needs.
Safety: When performed by a qualified professional, peeling is a safe and effective technique.

What are the precautions and contraindications for a facial peel?

Precautions to be taken into account:

Sun protection: Essential after treatment to prevent pigmentation spots.
Medical follow-up: Close monitoring is essential, especially for medium and deep peels.
Contraindications: Peeling is not recommended during pregnancy, in cases of active skin infections or certain skin conditions.

In conclusion, peeling is a non-invasive method that can treat multiple skin problems while improving the overall quality of the skin. By choosing the right type of peel and following the doctor’s recommendations, it is possible to achieve lasting and spectacular results, for visibly healthier and more radiant skin.

How does a chemical peel treatment work in aesthetic medicine?

- A peeling session is a simple and effective procedure, carried out in a medical practice under the supervision of a qualified professional. Here are the key steps in a session, from the initial consultation to post-treatment care.

1. Prior consultation

Before the session, a consultation is essential to assess the patient’s specific needs and define the appropriate protocol:

Skin analysis: The doctor examines the skin type, skin problems (spots, wrinkles, acne, etc.) and the areas to be treated.
Choice of peel: Depending on the objectives, the practitioner determines the type of peel (superficial, medium) and the most appropriate chemical (glycolic acid, trichloroacetic acid, phenol, etc.).
Pre-peel recommendations: Skin preparation may be advisable, such as using creams containing retinol or mild acids, to ensure even penetration of the active ingredients and maximise results.

2. Preparing the skin

On the day of the treatment, the skin is carefully prepared to ensure optimal application of the peel:

Cleansing: The skin is thoroughly cleansed to remove impurities, make-up and excess sebum.
Degreasing: A specific product is applied to degrease the skin and promote uniform penetration of the active agents.

3. Application of the chemical solution

The practitioner applies the chosen exfoliating solution according to a specific protocol:

Method of application: The solution is applied using a brush, cotton wool or gauze to the targeted areas (face, neck, hands, etc.).
Application time: The product is left on for a set period of time, usually a few minutes, depending on the type of peel and the thickness of the skin.
Sensations experienced: During application, the patient may experience a slight warmth or tingling sensation. For medium peels, a neutralising solution or local anaesthetic may be used to reduce discomfort.

4. Neutralisation and appeasement

Once the exposure time has elapsed, the chemical solution is neutralised (if necessary):

Neutralisation: The practitioner applies a specific solution or rinses the skin thoroughly to remove the active acid.
Soothing care: A moisturising or repairing cream is applied to calm the skin and strengthen the skin barrier.

5. Post-treatment instructions

After the session, the doctor provides instructions that must be strictly followed to optimise results and prevent complications:

Hydration: The use of moisturising creams is essential to support healing and reduce the feeling of tightness.
Sun protection: SPF 50 protection is essential to prevent pigmentation spots caused by photosensitivity.
Social downtime: Depending on the type of peel, social downtime is virtually non-existent. The skin may peel either immediately after treatment or a few days later. This peeling, which varies in intensity, can last from 2 to 15 days. Do not scratch or scrub off dead skin. Simply apply a moisturising cream.
Products to avoid: It is recommended to avoid irritating products (retinol, exfoliants, etc.) for a few days.

How long are the sessions and how often do they take place?

Superficial peeling:
Approximately 15 to 30 minutes per session. Generally, 3 to 5 sessions spaced 2 to 3 weeks apart are required.
Medium peel:
Approximately 30 to 45 minutes. One to two sessions are sufficient, with an interval of several months between them.

After the session

The skin may react differently depending on the type of peel:

Superficial peeling:
Slight redness or flaking may occur for 2 to 3 days.
Medium peel:
Redness and significant flaking may last for 7 to 10 days.

A facial peel treatment, when performed correctly and followed up with appropriate aftercare, delivers visible and lasting results in terms of skin radiance, texture and health. Choosing a qualified professional is crucial to ensuring a safe and effective treatment.

The different families of acids used in facial peels in aesthetic medicine

In aesthetic medicine, peels mainly involve the use of various acids to exfoliate the skin, stimulate cell renewal and treat a variety of skin problems. Each family of acids offers specific properties, suited to different needs and skin types. Here is an overview of the main families of acids used.

1. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)

Fruit acids, also known as AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids), are widely used in aesthetic medicine and cosmetics for their exfoliating and regenerating properties. They are derived from natural sources such as fruits, plants and milks, and are recognised for their ability to improve the texture, radiance and quality of the skin.

• Origins of fruit acids

Fruit acids are mainly derived from natural raw materials:
Glycolic acid: Extracted from sugar cane.
Lactic acid: Derived from fermented milk and sometimes tomatoes.
Citric acid: Found in citrus fruits (lemons, oranges).
Malic acid: Derived from apples.
Tartaric acid: Found in grapes.
Although these compounds are naturally occurring, they are often synthesised in laboratories to ensure purity and concentration levels suitable for cosmetic or medical use.

• Specific characteristics of the main fruit acids

Each fruit acid has unique characteristics that determine its use.

• Glycolic acid

Molecular size: Very small, allowing deep penetration.
Benefits: Intense exfoliation, collagen stimulation, and even skin tone.
Indications: Wrinkles and fine lines, pigmentation spots and acne.
Tolerance: May cause irritation on sensitive skin.

• Lactic acid

Molecular size: Larger than glycolic acid, therefore gentler action.
Main benefit: Gentle exfoliation and hydration.
Indications: Sensitive, dry or dehydrated skin.
Tolerance: Well tolerated, even by reactive skin.

• Citric acid

Benefits: Exfoliation, brightening of the complexion, and reduction of pigmentation spots.
Indications: Dull skin, uneven complexion, and combating hyperpigmentation.
Tolerance: Potentially irritating in high concentrations.

• Malic acid

Main action: Gentle exfoliation, hydration and stimulation of cell renewal.
Indications: Tired or dull skin, and prevention of signs of ageing.
Tolerance: Very well tolerated, suitable for sensitive skin.

• Tartaric acid

Main action: Improves skin texture and reduces enlarged pores.
Indications: Skin with uneven texture or in need of a boost of radiance.
Tolerance: Low risk of irritation.

• What do fruit acids do to the skin?

Chemical exfoliation: Fruit acids dissolve the bonds between dead cells, promoting their removal to reveal brighter skin.
Cell stimulation: They accelerate cell renewal, improving skin elasticity and firmness.
Hydration: Certain AHAs, such as lactic acid, increase the skin’s ability to retain water.
Uniform complexion: These acids help reduce pigmentation spots and enhance the overall radiance of the complexion.

• Tolerance and precautions

Their use requires some precautions:
Concentration: These peels are available in various concentrations, ranging from 5% (cosmetic use) to 70% (medical use).
Sensitive skin:
A preliminary test is recommended to avoid irritation.
Photosensitivity:
These acids increase sensitivity to sunlight. Daily sun protection is essential.
Frequency of use:
Products containing AHAs should be introduced gradually into your skincare routine, especially if your skin is not used to them.

• Examples of fruit acid usage

Superficial glycolic acid peel:
Ideal for reviving the complexion’s radiance and reducing imperfections, particularly in the skin texture. This is a gentle peel.
Lactic acid moisturising mask:
Recommended for dry skin in need of a hydration boost.
Citric acid serum:
Suitable for correcting dull complexion and light spots.
They are valuable allies in achieving healthy, radiant and rejuvenated skin. Their versatility and effectiveness, combined with supervised and personalised use, make them indispensable in the field of aesthetic medicine and skincare.

2. Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs)

Unlike AHAs, BHAs are fat-soluble, which allows them to penetrate deep into the pores and act on excess sebum.

Main example: Salicylic acid.
Applications:
- Treat acne and blackheads;
- Reduce redness associated with skin inflammation;
- Reduce enlarged pores.
Benefits:
Ideal for oily, acne-prone skin.

3. Trichloroacetic acid (TCA)

TCA is a powerful acid used in medium to deep peels. It works by stimulating the renewal of the deeper layers of the skin.

Applications:
- Reduction of wrinkles and superficial scars;
- Correction of sun damage;
- Attenuation of significant pigmentation spots.
Advantages:
Delivers visible results in one or two sessions. Suitable for skin with significant damage.

4. Phenolic acids

These acids, such as phenol, are used in deep peels. They offer spectacular transformations but require strict medical supervision.

Applications:
- Correction of deep wrinkles;
- Reduction of severe scars;
- Uniformity of skin tone.
Advantages:
Long-lasting results over several years with a long recovery period and strict social exclusion.

5. Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs)

PHAs, such as lactobionic acid or gluconolactone, are gentle alternatives to AHAs.

Applications:
- Exfoliation of sensitive or reactive skin;
- Hydration and soothing of the skin;
- Reduction of mild signs of ageing.
Advantages:
Less irritating, suitable for sensitive skin or skin affected by rosacea.

6. Depigmenting acids

These acids specifically target hyperpigmentation issues.

Examples: Kojic acid, mandelic acid, phytic acid.
Applications:
- Reduction of brown hyperpigmented areas;
- Brightening of the complexion;
- Evening out of pigmentation.
Advantages:
Effective for medium and mild peels, particularly for skin prone to melasma.

How to choose the acid for a chemical peel?

The choice of acid depends on several factors:

Skin type: Sensitive, oily, dry or combination;
Skin problems: Acne, wrinkles, pigmentation spots, enlarged pores;
Desired depth: Shallow, medium or deep.

A preliminary consultation with an aesthetic medicine professional is essential to determine the acid and type of peel best suited to your needs.

In conclusion, the acids used in peels offer a range of options to meet all skin care needs. When chosen and applied correctly, they can restore radiant, even and revitalised skin.

TCA Facial Peels in Aesthetic Medicine: An In-Depth Approach

Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) peels are a cosmetic procedure widely recognised for their effectiveness in treating various skin conditions. Classified as a medium peel, they work deep down to improve skin texture, reduce imperfections and stimulate cell renewal.

What is TCA?

Trichloroacetic acid is a trichlorinated derivative of acetic acid, commonly used in dermatology for its powerful exfoliating properties. Its concentration can vary, generally between 15% and 50%, determining the depth of its action on the skin.

Mechanism of action of TCA peeling

When applied, TCA causes skin proteins to coagulate, resulting in controlled exfoliation of the superficial to middle layers of the skin. This process stimulates cell regeneration and collagen production, leading to smoother, more even skin.

Indications for TCA Peel Treatment

TCA peels are recommended for treating:

Wrinkles and fine lines: Reduction of signs of ageing with a smooth appearance of the skin.
Hyperpigmentation: Reduction of age spots, melasma and sun damage.
Superficial scars: Improvement in the appearance of mild acne scars.
Skin texture: Refines skin texture and reduces enlarged pores.
Dull complexion: Reveals a more radiant and even complexion.

How a TCA facial peel session works

Initial consultation:
Assessment of the skin and determination of the appropriate TCA concentration.
Skin preparation:
Thorough cleansing and possible application of preparatory products to ensure even penetration of the acid.
Application of TCA:
Apply the solution evenly to the target area, carefully monitoring skin reactions.
Neutralisation: As the TCA is not neutralised, it is left to act until « frosting » (whitening of the skin) appears, indicating that the acid has finished acting.
Post-peel care:
Application of soothing and moisturising creams to promote healing.

Aftercare and precautions following a peel

Scaling:
Significant scaling occurring over a period of 5 to 7 days.
Redness:
The skin may remain pink for several weeks.
Sun protection: Essential for preventing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Hydration:
Regular application of moisturising creams to support cell regeneration.
Do not apply tinted skincare products such as foundation for 48 hours after the session.

Contre-indications et précautions

Dark skin: Increased risk of hyperpigmentation; careful assessment is necessary.
Pregnancy and breastfeeding: TCA peels are not recommended.
Active skin conditions: Infections, herpes or open wounds are contraindications.
Predisposition to hypertrophic scars or keloids: Requires increased caution.

Expected outcomes

The effects of TCA peeling become apparent gradually:

Short term: Brighter, more even skin after exfoliation.
In the medium term: Improvement in skin texture, reduction in blemishes and fine lines.
Long term: Stimulation of collagen contributing to firmer, more elastic skin.

Frequency of treatments

Depending on the concentration used and the aesthetic goals, one to three sessions spaced several weeks apart may be recommended. An annual maintenance session is sometimes suggested to maintain the results.

TCA facial peels are a proven technique in aesthetic medicine for improving skin quality. Their effectiveness depends on the concentration used, the expertise of the practitioner and adherence to post-treatment care. A preliminary consultation is essential to determine suitability and ensure optimal results.

A facial peel with the benefits of TCA without the drawbacks? YES!! It's PRX-T-33.

PRX-T33 is an innovative treatment in aesthetic medicine, combining the advantages of a chemical peel and bio-revitalisation without the usual drawbacks of traditional facial peels. It combines 33% trichloroacetic acid (TCA) with hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂) and kojic acid, allowing deep stimulation of the skin without causing flaking.

In the PRX-T33, the addition of hydrogen peroxide modulates the action of TCA, reducing side effects such as redness or flaking of the face. This synergy promotes cell regeneration and collagen production, improving skin texture and firmness.

The PRX-T33 is indicated for:

Improve the radiance of the complexion.
Reduce fine lines and wrinkles.
Reduce acne scars.
Treat pigment spots.
Firm the skin on the face, neck and décolleté.

This treatment offers significant advantages as it is non-invasive and painless
, meaning there is no need to take time off work. It is suitable for all skin types and can be carried out at any time of year. Results are visible after the first session, with gradual improvement over the course of the treatment. It is recommended to have 1 to 6 sessions, spaced 15 days apart.

After thoroughly cleansing the skin, the practitioner applies PRX-T33 using a series of massaging movements until it is completely absorbed. Generally, 2 to 4 applications are performed during a session. The skin is then rinsed and a moisturising cream is applied. A session lasts approximately 30 minutes.

Precautions and contraindications: Although PRX-T33 is well tolerated, it is not recommended in cases of:

Irritated or damaged skin.
Allergy to kojic acid or latex.
Pregnancy or breastfeeding.

Facial peels in aesthetic medicine are an effective approach to improving the quality and appearance of the skin. By removing the surface layers of the epidermis, they promote cell renewal, reduce imperfections and revive the complexion’s radiance. Depending on the depth of the peel—superficial, medium or deep—the indications vary, ranging from the treatment of wrinkles and pigmentation spots to the correction of acne scars. It is essential to consult a qualified professional to determine the type of peel that is suitable for each skin type and its specific needs. Proper preparation and rigorous post-treatment care are essential to optimise results and minimise risks. Peels remain a preferred option for those who want to restore smoother, more even and radiant skin.