Long associated with adolescence, acne can nevertheless persist or appear in adulthood, affecting both women and men. Inflammatory spots, blackheads, cysts and painful nodules… the symptoms of adult acne, which can vary in severity regardless of age, can be as embarrassing as they are difficult to treat, with each case being unique. Hormonal factors, stress, pollution, diet and even unsuitable cosmetics: there are many causes and each requires appropriate treatment. Fortunately, advances in aesthetic medicine now offer effective solutions to reduce these imperfections and restore clear, healthy skin. In this article, we explain the causes of adult acne and the best treatments to remedy it.
What are the main causes of acne in adults?
1. Hormonal imbalance
Teenagers: The increase in androgen hormones during adolescence stimulates sebum production.
Adult women: Hormonal acne can be linked to the menstrual cycle, pregnancy, menopause or polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS). Women of any age can be affected by this skin condition.
Men: Excessive testosterone production can promote the development of acne, which can sometimes be severe.
2. Sebum: an essential ally, but sometimes problematic
Sebum is a natural lipid substance produced by the sebaceous glands, located in the dermis at the base of the hair follicles. It plays an essential role in skin health by forming a protective film called the hydrolipidic film. This film preserves skin hydration, protects against external aggressions (pollution, microbes, climatic variations) and contributes to the proper balance of the skin’s flora.
A delicate balance: why must we take care of it?
Although sebum is essential for maintaining supple and resilient skin, its balance is delicate. Insufficient production can lead to dry, fragile skin that is prone to irritation. Conversely, excess sebum can cause skin problems on oily skin, such as acne.
Various factors influence sebum production:
Hormones, particularly androgens, stimulate the activity of the sebaceous glands. This is why adult acne particularly affects women, often in connection with hormonal fluctuations (menstrual cycle, pregnancy, contraception, menopause).
Stress, which promotes the release of cortisol, a hormone that indirectly stimulates sebum secretion.
Diet, with certain foods rich in fast-acting sugars and dairy products that can aggravate sebaceous hyperproduction.
Unsuitable cosmetics, which cause damage by blocking pores, forming comedones, blackheads, spots and even cysts, and disrupting the natural regulation of sebum. Using the wrong cosmetics can cause severe acne.
Excess sebum: a breeding ground for acne
When the skin produces too much sebum, it becomes thicker and accumulates in the hair follicles. It then mixes with dead cells and impurities, forming a plug that clogs the pores. This blockage creates an ideal environment for the growth of a bacterium naturally present on the skin, Cutibacterium acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes). As this bacterium proliferates, it triggers an inflammatory process, responsible for the red spots, pustules and cysts characteristic of acne.
Excess sebum also promotes the appearance of blackheads (open comedones) and microcysts (closed comedones), which can develop into more severe inflammatory lesions if not treated properly.
How can sebum production be regulated?
To prevent and treat acne caused by excess sebum, it is essential to adopt a suitable skincare routine:
Use mild cleansers to avoid irritating the skin and prevent a rebound effect, which leads to overproduction of sebum, forming blackheads and spots.
Opt for regulating skincare products containing active ingredients such as salicylic acid, zinc or niacinamide, which control sebum production and reduce inflammation. A Hydrafacial is recommended once a month.
Do not use occlusive cosmetics, such as comedogenic oils and overly rich creams, which can cause severe pore blockage and comedones, leading to the appearance of cysts or skin nodules.
Eat a balanced diet, limiting foods with a high glycaemic index and favouring foods rich in antioxidants.
Consult a cosmetic medicine professional, who can recommend suitable treatments such as chemical peels, LED light therapy or Jet Peel to regulate sebum production and improve the quality of your skin according to its type.
By taking care of your sebum and ensuring it remains balanced, you can maintain healthy skin and prevent the appearance of blemishes caused by excess sebum.
Sebum is an oily substance that protects the skin, but in excess, it can clog pores and cause acne. Oily skin is more prone to breakouts.
3. Acne and dead cell build-up: a key factor in pore blockage
When the skin does not renew itself properly, dead cells accumulate and cause hair follicles to become blocked, promoting the formation of comedones (blackheads and whiteheads).
Acne is a multifactorial skin condition, often aggravated by an excessive accumulation of dead cells on the surface of the epidermis. This phenomenon, known as hyperkeratinisation, plays a central role in the obstruction of pores and the formation of skin imperfections such as comedones, blackheads and spots. Understanding this mechanism is essential for adopting the right habits, using the right products and preventing the onset of acne.
Cell renewal and elimination of dead cells
The skin regenerates naturally through a cycle of cell renewal. Every day, thousands of skin cells die and are gradually eliminated, leaving room for new, healthy cells. This process, which lasts an average of 28 days, helps to keep the skin smooth and radiant.
However, this mechanism can be disrupted by various factors:
Hormonal imbalances, which stimulate excessive production of keratinocytes (skin cells), leading to abnormal accumulation of dead cells.
Excess sebum, which sticks dead cells together and prevents their natural elimination.
Stress and fatigue, which slow down the skin renewal process.
Exposure to pollution, which promotes oxidation and the accumulation of impurities on the skin’s surface every day.
Inappropriate or insufficient skincare, such as overly aggressive cleansing or a lack of exfoliation, which prevents the removal of dead skin cells.
When dead cells clog pores: the formation of acne
When dead cells accumulate in excess on the surface of the skin, they clog pores and prevent sebum from flowing normally. This blockage leads to the formation of open comedones (blackheads) and closed comedones (microcysts).
In an environment where sebum is trapped beneath the skin’s surface, a naturally occurring bacterium, Cutibacterium acnes, proliferates and triggers an inflammatory reaction. This is how red spots, pustules, nodules and painful cysts appear.
How can you prevent dead skin cells from accumulating and limit acne?
To avoid clogging pores and limiting the appearance of acne, it is essential to adopt a suitable skincare routine:
Gentle and effective cleaning
It is important to use a soap-free cleanser, suitable for acne-prone skin, to remove impurities without damaging the skin barrier.
Choose cleansers for oily skin that contain salicylic acid or zinc, which help to purify pores, remove blackheads and regulate excess sebum.
Regular exfoliation
Exfoliation removes dead skin cells and unclogs pores and blackheads.
Choose chemical exfoliants (fruit acids, glycolic acid, salicylic acid) over mechanical exfoliants (grainy scrubs), which can be too harsh and cause further inflammation.
Keratolytic treatments for renewal
Incorporate skincare products containing active ingredients such as glycolic acid, lactic acid or retinol, which promote cell renewal and prevent excessive accumulation of dead skin cells.
Appropriate hydration
Using a light, non-comedogenic cream is important for maintaining skin balance and preventing compensatory sebum overproduction.
Aesthetic medicine treatments
Treatments such as chemical peels, microdermabrasion, or LED light therapy can help deeply exfoliate the skin and prevent the accumulation of dead cells.
By adopting these habits and ensuring optimal cell renewal, it is possible to limit the appearance of acne and regain a clearer, more even complexion without blackheads, cysts, skin nodules or spots.
4. Bacteria and inflammation in adult acne: a complex mechanism
Adult acne is a multifactorial skin condition involving several biological processes. Among these, inflammation and bacterial proliferation play a key role in the formation of acne lesions. One of the main bacteria involved is Cutibacterium acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes), a microorganism that is naturally present on the skin. When it proliferates excessively, it contributes to the onset of inflammatory reactions responsible for the redness, inflamed spots and cystic lesions or nodules typical of adult acne.
In this chapter, we will explore the role of this bacterium, the mechanisms of skin inflammation, and the important solutions to be adapted to each case in order to control this inflammatory and bacterial response.
a). Cutibacterium acnes bacteria: a key player in adult acne
Cutibacterium acnes is a Gram-positive anaerobic bacterium that forms part of the skin microbiota. It is naturally present in hair follicles and feeds mainly on sebum. Under normal circumstances, it plays a beneficial role in helping to maintain a healthy microbiological balance.
However, under certain conditions, this bacterium can become pathogenic and trigger an inflammatory process, particularly when it proliferates excessively in an environment conducive to its development.
b). How does Cutibacterium acnes trigger inflammation?
a) Follicle obstruction and bacterial proliferation
When the sebaceous glands produce excess sebum and dead cells accumulate in the follicle, a kerato-seborrhoeic plug forms. This anaerobic (oxygen-poor) microenvironment promotes the proliferation of Cutibacterium acnes, which develops and colonises the blocked pores. Lesions such as spots, cysts or nodules may appear.
b) Production of inflammatory substances
Once established, C. acnes produces enzymes (lipases, proteases, hyaluronidases) that break down sebum into free fatty acids. These are highly irritating and damage the hair follicle wall, making the skin more vulnerable to external aggressions.
The bacterium also releases factors, such as antimicrobial peptides and exopolysaccharides, which activate local immune cells.
c) Activation of the immune system
The body detects the presence of the bacterium and its toxins via innate immunity receptors (Toll-like receptors, TLR). This triggers the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines (IL-1, IL-8, TNF-α) and the recruitment of immune cells (neutrophils, macrophages).
This process causes:
Vasodilation and increased permeability of skin capillaries → redness and swelling.
Activation of neutrophils, which release destructive enzymes and free radicals → damage to surrounding tissue.
The formation of lesions such as pustules and nodules, which can develop into scarring lesions in the event of an excessive immune system reaction.
c). Why is inflammation more pronounced in adult women and men?
Adult acne has certain characteristics that distinguish it from teenage acne:
Chronic low-grade inflammation
In adults, it is more widespread and persistent, causing red, painful spots or papules mainly on the jaw, chin and cheeks.
This phenomenon is linked to increased immune system reactivity, particularly under the influence of hormonal fluctuations and oxidative stress.
Increased resistance to conventional treatments
C. acnes can develop antibiotic resistance mechanisms, making it more difficult to eliminate with conventional topical or oral treatments.
A different immune response
Some studies suggest that adults with acne have a genetic predisposition to hyperactivation of immune receptors.
d). How can inflammation and bacterial proliferation associated with acne be controlled?
a) Regulate bacterial proliferation
Antibacterial agents
Benzoyl peroxide: a powerful oxidising agent that reduces bacterial load.
Retinoids (tretinoin, adapalene): regulate cell renewal and prevent pore blockage.
Exfoliating acids (salicylic acid, glycolic acid): promote the elimination of dead cells and reduce the environment conducive to the proliferation of C. acnes.
Skin probiotics
Some research suggests that the application of prescribed probiotics may help rebalance the skin microbiota and limit the excessive growth of C. acnes.
b) Reduce skin inflammation
Soothing treatments to prescribe
Niacinamide: a powerful anti-inflammatory that reduces redness and skin reactivity.
Zinc: regulates sebaceous gland activity and limits the production of inflammatory cytokines.
Thermal water and plant extracts (chamomile, centella asiatica): soothe inflammatory reactions.
Advanced medical treatments prescribed
Blue and red LED light: kills C. acnes and reduces inflammation without side effects.
Chemical peels: help exfoliate the skin and reduce hyperkeratinisation.
Isotretinoin (Roaccutane): for severe acne, this treatment drastically reduces sebum production and limits bacterial proliferation.
Inflammation and bacterial proliferation play a central role in adult acne. Cutibacterium acnes, although a natural component of the skin microbiota, can become pathogenic when it develops in an obstructed, sebum-rich environment. The inflammatory response of the immune system, which is exacerbated in some adults, leads to the formation of persistent and sometimes painful lesions such as cysts and nodules.
Thanks to advances in dermatology and aesthetic medicine, there are many solutions available to regulate this inflammation, limit bacterial proliferation and restore healthier skin. Appropriate, personalised care is essential for treating adult acne effectively and sustainably.
5. Genetic factors and acne: a hereditary predisposition?
Acne is a multifactorial skin condition influenced by environmental factors as well as genetic factors. Numerous studies have shown that heredity plays a major role in susceptibility to developing acne, particularly in adult women and men.
Some people are more predisposed than others to suffer from acne due to genetic mutations that influence sebum production, skin cell keratinisation, inflammation and the immune response to Cutibacterium acnes. This chapter explores the links between genetics and acne, as well as solutions for better managing this predisposition.
A well-established familial predisposition to acne
Epidemiological studies have shown a strong correlation between acne and family history.
Increased risk if parents have acne
A person whose one of whose parents suffered from acne is three to four times more likely to develop it themselves.
When both parents have had acne, the likelihood is even higher.
The case of twins and heredity
Research on cases of monozygotic (identical) twins has shown a high concordance in the development of acne, suggesting a strong genetic influence.
These observations indicate that certain specific genes influence susceptibility to acne and its progression, particularly in adulthood.
Which genes are involved in acne?
a) Genes regulating sebum production
CYP1A1 gene
Associated with the activation of androgen hormones, which are responsible for stimulating the sebaceous glands.
A variation in this gene could lead to overproduction of sebum, promoting pore blockage.
Gène SEBP1 (Sebaceous Gland Differentiation and Lipogenesis Pathway)
Involved in regulating the activity of the sebaceous glands.
Overexpression leads to sebum hyperactivity and an environment conducive to the development of acne.
b) Genes involved in keratinisation
FLG gene (Filaggrin)
Plays a role in the structure of the skin barrier.
Mutations in the FLG gene cause poor exfoliation of dead cells, contributing to pore blockage.
KRT75 gene (Keratin 75)
Involved in the rigidity of skin cells and the formation of hair follicles.
A mutation can cause excessive keratinisation, increasing the risk of comedone formation.
c) Genes involved in immune response and inflammation
HLA genes (Major histocompatibility complex)
Regulate the immune response against Cutibacterium acnes.
Certain genetic variations increase susceptibility to bacterial infections and excessive inflammatory reactions.
TNF-α gene (Tumour Necrosis Factor Alpha)
Responsible for the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines.
Excessive expression leads to chronic inflammation, explaining why some people develop more severe and persistent acne.
Adult acne and genetics: differences compared to adolescence
Adult acne has specific characteristics that can be influenced by genetics:
Hypersensitivity to androgens
Even with normal hormone levels, some genetically predisposed individuals have more sensitive androgen receptors, which stimulates sebum production.
More pronounced inflammation
A genetic predisposition to an excessive immune response leads to deeper, more inflammatory lesions, often located on the jaw and chin.
A tendency to retain dead cells
People with a mutation affecting keratinisation are more prone to developing microcyst lesions and closed comedones.
Can genetic acne be treated?
Although genetics play an important role, it is possible to mitigate the impact of these predispositions through appropriate strategies:
a) Regulate sebum production
Use of niacinamide, zinc and retinoid-based treatments to limit sebaceous gland activity.
Medical treatments such as isotretinoin, which permanently reduces sebum production.
b) Promote healthy cell renewal
Gentle exfoliation with salicylic or glycolic acid to prevent the accumulation of dead skin cells.
Keratolytic treatments such as retinoids (tretinoin, adapalene) to promote optimal cell renewal.
c) Reduce inflammation
Use of anti-inflammatory ingredients such as niacinamide, zinc and green tea.
Consultation with a dermatologist or cosmetic doctor for advanced treatments (peels, microneedling, LED therapy, laser).
d) Adapting one’s lifestyle
An anti-inflammatory diet (rich in omega-3, antioxidants, low in refined sugars) can limit the expression of pro-inflammatory genes.
Good stress management helps regulate hormone and immune production.
Adult acne is strongly influenced by genetics, with a hereditary predisposition to excessive sebum production, abnormal keratinisation and exacerbated inflammation. However, even though certain genes increase the risk of acne, their expression can be modulated by appropriate skincare, a healthy lifestyle and targeted treatments.
By better understanding the genetic mechanisms involved, it is possible to adopt a more personalised and effective approach to managing adult acne and improving skin quality in a sustainable way.
6. Stress and lifestyle: understanding their impact on skin acne
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Among the aggravating factors, stress and lifestyle play a key role in the appearance and persistence of blemishes and lesions. Chronic stress, lack of sleep, an unbalanced diet and poor lifestyle choices can disrupt the skin’s balance and promote acne breakouts.
In this article, we will explore how stress and lifestyle influence acne, and discover the best strategies for minimising their impact and regaining healthier skin.
Stress and acne: a vicious circle
Stress, whether related to work, emotions or an unbalanced lifestyle, affects the skin in several ways:
🔹 Stress stimulates sebum production.
When we are stressed, the body releases cortisol, a hormone that stimulates the production of sebum by the sebaceous glands. Excess cortisol clogs the pores, creating an environment conducive to bacterial proliferation and the appearance of lesions such as inflammatory spots, nodules or severe cysts.
🔹 Skin inflammation is exacerbated
Chronic stress triggers an increased inflammatory response in the body, increasing skin sensitivity and aggravating redness and acne lesions.
🔹 Stress impairs the skin barrier
Stressed skin is more vulnerable to external aggressions such as pollution and bacteria. A weakened skin barrier leads to moisture loss and increased inflammation.
🔹 The impact of stress on aggravating behaviours
When faced with stress, some people adopt habits that aggravate acne:
✔️ Touching one’s face frequently, thereby transferring bacteria to the skin.
✔️ Scratching or piercing spots, which promotes scarring and scar marks.
✔️ Skipping steps in your skincare routine due to lack of time or motivation.
The impact of lifestyle on acne
Beyond stress, an unbalanced lifestyle can promote or aggravate acne.
🔹 Lack of sleep
Sleep plays a crucial role in cell regeneration and hormone regulation. Insufficient sleep:
Increases the production of cortisol, thereby aggravating acne.
Reduces the skin’s ability to repair itself, slowing down the healing of spots.
Promotes a dull and tired complexion.
💡 Solution: Sleep 7 to 9 hours per night to allow the skin to regenerate effectively.
🔹 Diet and its influence on acne
Certain dietary habits can have a direct impact on skin health:
❌ High glycaemic index foods (sugar, white bread, soft drinks, pastries) promote the secretion of insulin, which stimulates sebum production and aggravates acne.
❌ Dairy products, especially skimmed milk, are associated with an increase in skin inflammation and acne flare-ups.
❌ Ultra-processed foods rich in additives and saturated fats disrupt the body’s hormonal and inflammatory balance.
✔️ Anti-inflammatory foods such as oily fish (omega-3), green vegetables, green tea and antioxidant-rich fruits help to calm acne.
✔️ Probiotics and prebiotics (kefir, yoghurt, fermented vegetables) promote a balanced gut microbiota, thereby reducing systemic inflammation and acne.
🔹 Pollution and healthy living
The environment also plays a key role in acne:
✔️ Pollution clogs pores and increases sebum oxidation, promoting the appearance of spots and blackheads. in comedones
✔️ Wearing a mask can cause breakouts known as « maskne » due to repeated moisture and friction on the skin.
💡 Solution: Cleanse the skin morning and evening with a gentle product, use antioxidant protection (vitamin C, niacinamide) and always apply a non-comedogenic moisturiser to protect the skin barrier.
How can you reduce the impact of stress and improve your lifestyle for healthier, acne-free skin?
🔹 Managing stress effectively
✅ Practise meditation and deep breathing: Just a few minutes a day can help reduce cortisol levels.
✅ Exercise regularly: Physical exercise improves blood circulation, reduces stress and helps eliminate toxins through perspiration.
✅ Keep a diary or practise journaling: Writing down your thoughts helps you manage your emotions better and release tension.
🔹 Adopt a suitable skincare routine
✔️ Gentle cleansing morning and evening to remove impurities without damaging the skin. ✔️ Soothing and anti-inflammatory serums (niacinamide, zinc, azelaic acid).
✔️ Essential hydration: Well-hydrated skin produces less sebum to compensate for dryness.
✔️ Daily sun protection to prevent hyperpigmentation and UV-related inflammation.
🔹 Improve sleep quality
Maintain a regular sleep schedule.
Be careful with screens before bedtime, as they disrupt melatonin production.
Drink a relaxing herbal tea before bedtime (chamomile, verbena).
🔹 Adjust your diet for clearer skin
✔️ Prioritise foods rich in omega-3 (salmon, walnuts, flax seeds).
✔️ Eat vegetables and fruits rich in antioxidants to reduce inflammation.
✔️ Drink plenty of water to promote the elimination of toxins and maintain optimal hydration.
Adult acne is often a reflection of an unbalanced lifestyle, influenced by stress, lack of sleep, poor diet and environmental factors. By adopting simple and effective measures, it is possible to reduce acne breakouts and improve skin health in the long term.
Rather than looking for a miracle solution, a comprehensive and personalised approach combining stress management, tailored skincare and a balanced lifestyle is the best strategy for achieving clear, radiant skin in the long term. ✨
7. Diet and acne: what impact does it have on the skin?
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While the dietary causes of acne have long been controversial, numerous recent studies confirm that certain foods can either worsen acne flare-ups or, conversely, contribute to healthier skin.
In this chapter, we will explore the links between diet and acne, identify foods to avoid and foods to prioritise, and offer nutritional advice to help reduce inflammation and excess sebum, which are responsible for skin imperfections.
How does diet influence acne?
The impact of diet on acne is based on several biological mechanisms:
a) The effect of foods with a high glycaemic index
One of the most well-established links between diet and acne concerns foods with a high glycaemic index (GI), i.e. those that cause a rapid rise in blood sugar levels.
When we consume sugar and refined carbohydrates (pastries, white bread, soft drinks, sweets, white rice, etc.), the body reacts by producing large amounts of insulin.
This insulin secretion leads to an increase in androgens, hormones that stimulate sebum production and promote pore blockage.
In addition, insulin stimulates a growth factor called IGF-1 (Insulin-like Growth Factor-1), which activates the sebaceous glands and can promote skin inflammation.
Thus, a diet rich in fast sugars and processed foods can exacerbate acne by overstimulating sebum production and increasing skin inflammation.
b) Dairy products: an aggravating factor
Dairy products, particularly skimmed milk and industrial cheeses, are also associated with an increase in acne.
Milk contains growth hormones that stimulate IGF-1, thereby contributing to sebum hypersecretion.
It also contains bovine hormone residues, which can disrupt hormonal balance and promote skin inflammation.
Milk proteins, particularly casein and whey protein, increase insulin and can aggravate acne.
It is therefore advisable to reduce your consumption of milk and dairy products, especially if you suffer from persistent acne.
c) Inflammation and the role of omega-6 fatty acids
Acne is largely an inflammatory condition. An unbalanced diet, rich in omega-6 fatty acids (found in refined vegetable oils such as sunflower, soya and corn oil) and low in omega-3, promotes chronic inflammation.
Omega-6 stimulates the production of inflammatory prostaglandins, which aggravate acne lesions.
On the other hand, omega-3 fatty acids, found in oily fish (salmon, sardines, mackerel) and flax or chia seeds, have a powerful anti-inflammatory effect and help to reduce redness and inflammatory acne.
A good balance between omega-3 and omega-6 is therefore essential for reducing acne.
d) The role of gut microbiota and digestion
The link between gut health and skin health is increasingly being studied.
An unbalanced gut flora (dysbiosis) can lead to increased intestinal permeability, promoting systemic inflammation and skin problems, including acne.
Excessive consumption of ultra-processed foods, food additives and antibiotics disrupts the gut flora and can aggravate acne.
Conversely, probiotics (found in natural yoghurt, kefir, sauerkraut and kimchi) and prebiotics (dietary fibre found in vegetables, pulses and whole grains) promote good gut health and can contribute to healthier skin.
Foods to avoid to reduce acne
Certain foods can aggravate acne symptoms and should be limited:
High glycaemic index foods: soft drinks, sweets, cakes, refined cereals, white rice, white bread, non-wholemeal pasta.
Dairy products: skimmed milk, industrial cheeses, whey protein.
Vegetable oils rich in omega-6: sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil.
Ultra-processed foods: ready meals, industrial charcuterie, fast food, crisps.
Excessive alcohol and caffeine consumption: can disrupt the gut microbiota and promote inflammation
Foods to prioritise for healthier skin
Conversely, certain foods have a beneficial effect on the skin and help reduce acne:
Foods rich in omega-3: oily fish (salmon, sardines, mackerel), linseed, chia seeds, walnuts.
Fruits and vegetables rich in antioxidants: berries, spinach, broccoli, carrots, sweet potatoes.
Lean proteins: white meat, eggs, tofu, pulses.
Whole grains: quinoa, brown rice, oats, buckwheat.
Foods rich in zinc: oysters, pumpkin seeds, lean meats, lentils.
Probiotics and prebiotics: plain yoghurt, kefir, sauerkraut, garlic, onion, leek.
Green tea: rich in polyphenols, it helps regulate sebum production and has an anti-inflammatory effect.
Dietary advice for improving acne
Adopt a low glycaemic index diet: choose whole foods that are rich in fibre.
Limit dairy products: opt for plant-based alternatives such as almond or coconut milk.
Balancing omega-3 and omega-6: consume more oily fish and oils rich in omega-3 (rapeseed oil, linseed oil).
Take care of your gut microbiota: include fermented and fibre-rich foods to promote good digestion.
Drink plenty of water: staying well hydrated helps eliminate toxins and keep your skin clear.
Be careful with alcohol and tobacco: they increase cellular oxidation and aggravate skin inflammation.
Diet plays a key role in skin balance and can influence the onset and severity of adult acne. By adopting a diet rich in anti-inflammatory nutrients, minimising the intake of high GI foods and dairy products, and taking care of your gut microbiota, it is possible to significantly improve skin quality. A comprehensive approach, combining a healthy diet, a tailored skincare routine and stress management, is essential for preventing and treating acne in the long term.
Certain foods with a high glycaemic index (refined sugars, processed foods) and dairy products are suspected of aggravating acne by stimulating hormone production.
8 Acne and the use of unsuitable cosmetic products: a little-known aggravating factor
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Adult acne can be influenced by many factors, including the use of unsuitable cosmetic products. Some skincare products and make-up, rather than improving skin quality, can clog pores, promote bacterial growth and increase inflammation, leading to the appearance of spots, blackheads and microcysts.
In this chapter, we will explore common mistakes when it comes to cosmetics, ingredients to avoid, and recommendations for choosing skincare products suitable for acne-prone skin.
The impact of cosmetics on acne: what mechanisms are at play?
Applying certain cosmetic products to acne-prone skin can aggravate symptoms in several ways:
a) Pore blockage and comedone formation
Many products, particularly those with a thick or oily texture, can be comedogenic, meaning they clog pores and promote the accumulation of sebum and dead skin cells. This blockage causes the formation of blackheads and microcysts, which can develop into inflammatory spots.
b) Skin irritation and inflammation
Some ingredients found in cosmetics can be too harsh for acne-prone skin and cause irritation and inflammatory reactions. Irritated skin produces more sebum in response, which further aggravates acne.
c) Imbalance of the hydrolipidic film
Excessive use of harsh cleansers or drying treatments can damage the skin’s natural barrier. Dehydrated skin will overproduce sebum to compensate, creating a rebound effect that promotes blemishes.
d) Bacterial proliferation
Certain cosmetics can create an environment conducive to the growth of Cutibacterium acnes, the bacterium involved in inflammatory acne. For example, sharing uncleaned make-up brushes or using products containing irritants can exacerbate infection and inflammation.
Common mistakes in acne treatment
Certain habits and choices of cosmetic products can promote or aggravate acne:
Using comedogenic products
Certain ingredients are known to clog pores and cause spots to appear:
Mineral oils and petroleum derivatives (petrolatum, paraffinum liquidum).
Occlusive silicones (dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane), which prevent the skin from breathing.
Cocoa butter and certain thick vegetable oils (coconut, wheat germ), which may be too rich for acne-prone skin.
Using overly aggressive cleaning products
Cleansers containing sulphates (sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium laureth sulphate) are too harsh and damage the hydrolipidic film, causing the skin to produce even more sebum through the sebaceous glands.
Excessive use of grainy scrubs can irritate the skin.
Overuse of occlusive make-up
Thick, full-coverage foundations, especially cream or stick versions, are often comedogenic and prevent the skin from breathing.
Excessive use of mattifying powders can absorb surface sebum but clog pores in the long term.
Forgetting to remove make-up and maintain accessories
Failing to remove your make-up properly before going to bed leaves a build-up of residue, pollution and bacteria on the skin, promoting acne.
Using dirty brushes or sponges can transfer bacteria and impurities to the skin.
Using too many acne treatments
The combination of several drying treatments (retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, exfoliating acids) can irritate the skin and trigger an inflammatory reaction.
Excessive use of astringent products (alcohol, menthol, witch hazel) can weaken the skin and cause excessive sebum production.
The right habits for a suitable skincare routine
Choose non-comedogenic skincare products that are suitable for acne-prone skin.
Opt for products labelled « non-comedogenic ».
Choose light, non-greasy textures, such as moisturising gels or fluids.
Use creams containing zinc, niacinamide, or salicylic acid, which are known to regulate sebum and soothe inflammation.
Gently cleanse the skin
Use a gentle cleanser without soap or sulphates to avoid irritating the skin.
Clean your face morning and evening, but do not rub hard so as not to stimulate sebum production.
Choose the right make-up
Opt for mineral foundations, which allow the skin to breathe.
Opt for lightweight, moisturising BB creams, enriched with soothing active ingredients.
Always remove your make-up thoroughly every day using a non-comedogenic oil.
Moisturise and protect the skin
Even acne-prone skin needs hydration! Use a light cream that is oil-free and non-comedogenic.
Apply daily sunscreen (minimum SPF 30), as UV rays aggravate inflammation and promote post-acne spots.
Maintain your accessories and observe good hygiene
Wash your make-up brushes and sponges regularly.
Avoid touching your face during the day with unwashed hands to limit bacterial growth.
Change your pillowcase frequently to prevent the build-up of bacteria and sebum.
The use of unsuitable cosmetic products can play a major role in the onset and worsening of adult acne. Comedogenic cosmetics, harsh cleansers and occlusive make-up are all aggravating factors that can clog pores.
By adopting a suitable, non-comedogenic skincare routine that respects the skin’s balance, it is possible to limit these negative effects and promote healthier skin. Good cosmetic hygiene, combined with careful product selection, helps to prevent and reduce blemishes and lesions in the long term.
The use of comedogenic cosmetics (thick oils, greasy creams) can clog pores and promote the appearance of spots.
9. Acne and medication: when medical treatments promote skin breakouts
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Acne is not always caused by hormones, diet or genetics. Certain medications can also cause acne breakouts or aggravate pre-existing acne. This form of acne, known as medication-induced acne, is often unexpected and persistent, and may require treatment adjustments or specific dermatological care.
In this chapter, we will explore the most commonly implicated medications, their mechanisms of action on the skin, and solutions for managing acne induced by these treatments.
How do certain medicines cause acne?
Medication-induced acne often manifests as inflammatory spots (papules, pustules) or microcysts, usually spread across the face, chest, back and sometimes even other areas of the body. Unlike classic acne, it can appear quickly after the start of treatment and may not respond to traditional acne treatments.
The mechanisms involved vary depending on the drugs in question:
Stimulation of sebum production → pore blockage and bacterial proliferation (Cutibacterium acnes).
Hyperkeratinisation → excessive accumulation of dead cells, promoting blackheads and microcysts.
Hormonal imbalance → increase in androgens, which stimulate sebaceous gland activity.
Skin inflammation → excessive activation of the immune system, causing redness and irritation of the skin.
The medicines most often responsible for acne
Corticosteroids (cortisone and derivatives): steroid acne
Used in anti-inflammatory treatments (asthma, autoimmune diseases, allergies, etc.), these medicines can be administered orally, by injection or topically.
Mechanism: corticosteroids increase the production of sebum and can cause obstruction of the hair follicles.
Symptom: sudden appearance of red, inflamed spots on the face, back and chest.
Special case: abruptly stopping cortisone-based medication can also trigger a temporary acne breakout.
Hormonal medicines (testosterone, progestogens, DHEA, anabolic steroids)
Hormone treatments in men (treatment of hypogonadism, sports doping) or in women (contraceptives containing certain progesterones, fertility treatments) may be involved.
Mechanism: increase in androgens, which stimulate sebum production and promote hormonal acne.
Symptom: painful cystic acne localised on the jaw, chin and upper back.
Certain hormonal contraceptives
Not all contraceptive pills have the same effect on acne.
Some progestogens (particularly levonorgestrel, desogestrel and norgestrel) can aggravate acne, while others (such as drospirenone and cyproterone) have a beneficial effect on the skin.
It is therefore important to choose a suitable pill if you have acne-prone skin.
Anti-epileptic drugs and antidepressants
Certain anti-epileptic drugs such as phenytoin or antidepressants can promote acne breakouts.
Mechanism: they influence stress hormones and inflammatory processes, which can lead to acne flare-ups.
Symptoms: widespread acne, sometimes associated with oilier skin.
Immunosuppressive drugs and anticancer drugs
Certain treatments such as mTOR inhibitors (sirolimus, everolimus), monoclonal antibodies and certain cancer treatments may induce severe inflammatory acne.
Mechanism: altered immune response and increased inflammatory reaction in the hair follicles.
Symptoms: skin eruptions resembling acne but often more inflammatory and resistant to conventional treatments.
Vitamins and dietary supplements (B12, iodine, whey protein)
An excess of vitamin B12 can alter sebum production and promote bacterial proliferation.
Supplements rich in iodine (found in certain thyroid supplements or seaweed) can cause inflammatory skin rashes.
Whey protein, highly prized in bodybuilding, stimulates the production of IGF-1, a hormone that promotes sebum secretion and acne.
How to manage medication-induced acne?
Identify the drug involved
Check whether the acne breakout occurred after starting a new medication.
Consult your doctor or dermatologist to assess whether an adjustment to your treatment is possible.
Adopt a suitable skincare routine
Clean the skin with a mild, soap-free gel rather than harsh cleansers.
Use appropriate anti-acne treatments containing zinc, niacinamide or salicylic acid.
Avoid comedogenic cosmetics and opt for non-occlusive products.
Adapting one’s lifestyle
Balanced diet: limit dairy products and foods with a high glycaemic index to minimise the effect of hormones on the skin.
Manage stress, which can aggravate skin inflammation and stimulate sebum production in the sebaceous glands.
Consider complementary dermatological treatment
Topical medications: creams containing benzoyl peroxide, retinoids, or azelaic acid to reduce inflammation and bacterial proliferation.
In-clinic treatments: chemical peels, LED light therapy, microneedling.
If necessary, a change in treatment may be considered in consultation with the doctor.
Drug-induced acne is a form of acne that is often underestimated, but which can have a significant impact on the skin and also affect psychological well-being. Many medications, particularly corticosteroids, certain contraceptives, hormone treatments and some dietary supplements, can stimulate sebum production, alter keratinisation or induce skin inflammation, thereby promoting the appearance of spots and inflammatory lesions.
If a link between a medication and an acne flare-up is suspected, it is recommended to consult a doctor to adjust the treatment if possible, while implementing a suitable skincare routine to minimise the impact on the skin. A personalised approach allows for better management of these breakouts and preserves skin health.
10. Acne and environmental factors: an often underestimated impact
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The environment plays a major role in the onset and worsening of acne, especially in adults. Pollution, climate, UV exposure, mask wearing, stress and lifestyle habits are all factors that influence skin health. Prolonged exposure to these elements can alter the skin’s balance, promote pore blockage and exacerbate inflammation, making acne more persistent and difficult to treat.
In this chapter, we will explore the main environmental causes of acne and the best strategies for limiting their impact on the skin.
Pollution: an invisible enemy in acne
Fine particles, hydrocarbons and other pollutants present in the air have harmful effects on the skin:
Sebum oxidation and inflammation
Air pollutants promote the oxidation of lipids present on the skin, making sebum thicker and more comedogenic.
This promotes the formation of blackheads and inflammation.
Alteration of the skin barrier
Pollution weakens the hydrolipidic film, causing more sensitive and reactive skin.
Excessive production of free radicals accelerates skin ageing and aggravates the redness associated with acne.
💡 Solutions
Clean your face morning and evening with a gentle cleanser to remove pollutants.
Apply an antioxidant cream containing vitamin C, niacinamide or green tea to protect the skin.
Wear sunscreen to prevent damage caused by oxidative stress.
Climate, seasonal variations and acne
Humidity and heat
Heat stimulates sebum production, which promotes pore blockage.
Excessive moisture increases the proliferation of bacteria and skin fungi, which can lead to fungal acne-like eruptions.
💡 Solutions
Use a purifying cleansing gel containing salicylic acid.
Choose light, non-greasy skincare products so as not to weigh down the skin.
The cold and the wind
Cold weather dries out the skin, causing a compensatory reaction with overproduction of sebum.
Dehydrated skin is more prone to inflammation and redness.
💡 Solutions
Apply a non-comedogenic moisturiser to protect the skin barrier.
Avoid harsh cleansers that strip the skin.
The sun: acne's false friend
Contrary to popular belief, sun exposure does not improve acne in the long term:
Temporary reducing effect: UV rays have a temporary anti-inflammatory effect that can make acne appear to improve.
Rebound effect: after exposure, the skin thickens (hyperkeratinisation) and produces more sebum, leading to a resurgence of spots several weeks later.
Post-acne spots: UV rays promote hyperpigmentation, leaving persistent marks after acne breakouts.
💡 Solutions
Use a non-comedogenic sunscreen (minimum SPF 30, ideally SPF 50).
Avoid prolonged exposure and apply an antioxidant (such as vitamin C) under sunscreen to protect the skin from free radicals.
Wearing a mask and mechanical acne ("maskne")
Prolonged mask wearing promotes acne through several mechanisms:
Occlusion and moisture under the mask → pore blockage and bacterial proliferation.
Repeated rubbing → irritation and micro-inflammation.
Perspiration and sebum accumulation under the fabric.
💡 Solutions
Change your mask regularly and choose breathable materials (cotton, silk).
Apply a light barrier cream to reduce friction.
Clean the skin with a gentle product and use a purifying treatment after prolonged mask wear.
Exposure to chemicals and toxic substances
Certain products present in the environment can have an impact on the skin:
Detergents, solvents and harsh household products: when in contact with the skin, they can disrupt the skin barrier and promote inflammation.
Tobacco and cigarette smoke: the toxins contained in smoke accelerate oxidative stress and promote inflammatory acne. The complexion is also dull and lacklustre.
Hard water and limescale: can dry out the skin and disrupt sebum regulation.
💡 Solutions
Use mild household products and wear gloves to limit skin contact.
Reduce tobacco consumption, which aggravates skin inflammation.
Install a water softener or use thermal water after washing your face if you have hard water.
Hygiene and daily habits for acne
Simple habits can have an impact on the onset of acne:
Do not touch your face: hands carry bacteria that can clog pores, causing blackheads, spots, pimples and even cysts.
Change your pillowcase regularly (at least once a week) to prevent the build-up of sebum and bacteria.
Clean your phone: contact with facial skin can cause spots to appear on the cheeks and chin.
The environment plays a key role in the onset and worsening of adult acne. Pollution, climate, stress, sun exposure, smoking and chemicals are all factors that influence sebum production, inflammation and pore blockage.
Adopting simple, appropriate measures can reduce these external aggressions and improve skin quality. A tailored skincare routine, combined with a healthy lifestyle and effective protection against environmental aggressions, is essential for preventing and controlling acne in the long term.
11. Acne and gut microbiota: an essential link between the gut and the skin
The link between gut health and skin health is increasingly being studied, and recent research suggests that the balance of the gut microbiota plays a fundamental role in regulating skin inflammation, including acne. Indeed, an imbalance in the gut microbiota, known as dysbiosis, can aggravate acne by altering the immune response, increasing systemic inflammation and disrupting hormonal balance.
In this chapter, we will explore the role of gut microbiota in acne, the factors that cause it to become unbalanced, and solutions for optimising digestive health and improving skin condition.
What is the gut microbiota and how is it related to the skin?
The gut microbiota is the collection of microorganisms (bacteria, yeasts, viruses) living in our digestive tract. It plays an essential role in:
Digestion and nutrient absorption.
The regulation of the immune system.
Protection against pathogens.
The synthesis of certain vitamins and neurotransmitters.
The skin and gut are closely linked via the gut-skin axis, a two-way communication system that influences skin health. An unbalanced microbiota can lead to low-grade chronic inflammation, which is reflected on the skin in the form of redness, blemishes and inflammatory acne.
How does an unbalanced microbiota promote acne?
An imbalance in the gut microbiota can promote the onset and worsening of acne through several mechanisms:
a) Increased systemic inflammation
Intestinal dysbiosis increases intestinal permeability (known as « leaky gut » or intestinal hyperpermeability).
When the intestine becomes more permeable, bacterial toxins called lipopolysaccharides (LPS) pass into the bloodstream and stimulate a generalised inflammatory response.
This inflammation promotes the appearance of red and painful acne lesions.
b) Disruption of hormonal regulation
Certain gut bacteria are involved in the metabolism of hormones, particularly oestrogens and androgens.
An unbalanced gut flora can increase levels of androgens, hormones involved in the overproduction of sebum and the obstruction of pores.
A disturbed microbiota can also promote an increase in IGF-1 (Insulin-like Growth Factor-1), a hormone that stimulates the sebaceous glands and aggravates acne.
c) The impact on stress and the gut-brain-skin axis
The gut microbiota influences the production of neurotransmitters, such as serotonin and GABA, which play a role in stress regulation.
An imbalance in the microbiota can increase anxiety and stress, which in turn stimulate the release of cortisol, a hormone that promotes inflammation and excessive sebum production.
What factors disrupt the gut microbiota and promote acne?
An unbalanced diet
Ultra-processed foods, rich in refined sugars and additives, promote the growth of pathogenic bacteria.
Dairy products, particularly skimmed milk, can stimulate IGF-1 and upset the balance of the microbiota.
Foods rich in omega-6 (sunflower oil, soya, maize) increase intestinal and skin inflammation.
Excessive consumption of antibiotics
Antibiotics, particularly those prescribed for acne (tetracyclines, doxycycline), destroy not only Cutibacterium acnes, but also beneficial bacteria in the gut, which can cause prolonged imbalance.
Stress and lack of sleep
Chronic stress alters the diversity of the gut microbiota and increases intestinal permeability.
Insufficient sleep reduces the production of melatonin and serotonin, affecting both the gut and the skin.
Excessive consumption of alcohol and caffeine
Excessive alcohol and caffeine disrupt the intestinal flora and increase gastric acidity, which can aggravate skin inflammation.
How can you rebalance your microbiota to improve acne?
Adopting a pro-microbiota diet
Promote prebiotics: these are fibres that feed good gut bacteria.
Found in: garlic, onions, leeks, asparagus, green bananas, legumes.
Consume probiotics: these good bacteria help restore the balance of the microbiota.
Found in: plain yoghurt, kefir, sauerkraut, kimchi, miso, kombucha.
Reduce refined sugars and processed foods to avoid causing intestinal inflammation. Found in pastries, sweets, confectionery, industrial products, etc.
Increase omega-3 intake (salmon, sardines, walnuts, chia seeds) for their anti-inflammatory effects.
Supporting the intestinal barrier
Take zinc supplements (regulates inflammation and intestinal flora).
Consume essential fatty acids to strengthen the intestinal wall (oils rich in omega-3, coconut oil).
Be careful with excessive alcohol consumption and food additives, which weaken the intestinal lining.
Reduce stress and improve sleep
Practise meditation, yoga, or breathing exercises to limit the impact of stress on the gut and skin.
Sleep at least 7 to 9 hours per night to allow for proper cell regeneration.
Avoiding the misuse of antibiotics
When treating with antibiotics, always combine with a probiotic to limit the effects on the microbiota.
Prioritise natural alternatives such as antibacterial essential oils (tea tree, oregano, thyme) or skin prebiotics to regulate the skin’s microbiota.
The balance of the gut microbiota plays a key role in skin health and can influence the onset and severity of adult acne. Intestinal dysbiosis can lead to chronic inflammation, hormonal disruption and increased sebum production, all three of which promote acne.
By adopting a suitable diet, limiting stress factors and taking care of your microbiota, it is possible to improve skin quality and reduce blemishes in the long term. A comprehensive approach combining digestive health and dermatological care is therefore an effective solution for treating acne holistically and sustainably.
An unhealthy gut can affect the skin. An imbalance in the gut microbiota can promote inflammation and the onset of acne.
What is adult acne?
1. Definition of adult acne
Adult acne is a chronic skin condition that affects people over the age of 25, although it is often associated with adolescence. It is characterised by the appearance of inflammatory spots (papules, pustules, nodules), blackheads (open comedones) and microcysts (closed comedones), mainly located on the lower part of the face (chin, jawline, cheeks) and sometimes on the neck, back or décolleté.
Unlike juvenile acne, adult acne is often more persistent and inflammatory, with irregular flare-ups and lesions that take longer to heal. In addition, it frequently leaves pigment spots and scars, making it a condition with a significant psychological impact.
Adult acne can be:
Persistent: a continuation of teenage acne that does not disappear over time.
Late-onset: sudden onset of acne in adulthood, with no notable history during adolescence.
Recurrent: a form of acne that disappears for several years and then reappears.
2. Who is affected by adult acne?
Adult acne mainly affects women, accounting for approximately 75 to 85 per cent of cases. This prevalence among women can be explained by hormonal fluctuations during the menstrual cycle, pregnancy, menopause, or when taking or stopping certain contraceptives.
Men are less affected by adult acne, but when they do suffer from it, it tends to be more severe and resistant to treatment, particularly due to higher androgenic activity, which stimulates sebum production.
Adult acne can persist until the age of 40 or 50, although it tends to diminish as the skin ages and becomes less oily over time.
3. The distinctive features of adult acne compared to teenage acne
| Criteria | Teenage acne | Adult acne |
|---|---|---|
| Location | T-zone (forehead, nose, chin) | Lower face (chin, jaw, cheeks) |
| Type of lesions | Blackheads, red spots, pustules | Inflammatory spots, cysts, pigmentation spots |
| Peau | Fatter | Combination to dry skin, sometimes sensitive |
| Duration | Peaks during adolescence, improves around the age of 20–25 | May persist for up to 40-50 years |
| Aggravating factors | Puberty hormones, diet | Hormones, stress, pollution, cosmetics |
Adult acne is more inflammatory, persistent and difficult to treat because the skin is often thinner and more reactive than that of adolescents.
4. What treatments are available for adult acne?
Tailored skincare routine
Gentle cleansing: use a soap-free cleanser to avoid irritating the skin.
Non-comedogenic skincare: choose light creams containing niacinamide, zinc or salicylic acid to prevent blackheads and spots.
Regular exfoliation: with mild acids (glycolic acid, salicylic acid) to prevent the accumulation of dead skin cells.
Daily sun protection for the face: to reduce inflammation, spots and post-acne marks.
Dermatological treatments
Retinoids (tretinoin, adapalene): regulate cell renewal and reduce pore blockage.
Benzoyl peroxide: a powerful antibacterial agent that limits the proliferation of Cutibacterium acnes.
Topical or oral antibiotics: used temporarily to control inflammation.
Chemical peels and LED light therapy: to reduce imperfections and stimulate skin regeneration.
Hormonal solutions
Specific contraceptive pills (containing drospirenone or cyproterone) to regulate androgens.
Spironolactone: an anti-androgen sometimes prescribed for adult women.
Natural and holistic approach
Balanced diet: reduction in foods with a high glycaemic index and increase in omega-3.
Stress management: relaxation techniques, sport, meditation.
Probiotics: to restore the balance of the gut microbiota and limit systemic inflammation.
Several dermatological treatments may be prescribed.
Topical treatments: Retinoids, benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid found in creams help regulate cell renewal and reduce inflammation.
Oral antibiotics: Cyclines are often prescribed to treat moderate to severe inflammatory forms.
Hormone treatments: The contraceptive pill and spironolactone may be offered to women suffering from hormonal acne.
Isotretinoin (Roaccutane): An effective treatment but reserved for severe cases due to its side effects.
Aesthetic medicine solutions for treating adult acne
Aesthetic medicine offers effective complementary solutions for treating acne and its after-effects.
1. Combining peels and LED light therapy to treat acne: a complementary and effective approach
Adult facial acne can be persistent and difficult to treat, often requiring a combined approach to reduce inflammation, improve skin texture and prevent recurrence. Among the most effective aesthetic solutions, the combination of chemical peels + LED therapy, microneedling, Jet PEEL® and Hydrafacial® offers deep treatment without major side effects.
In this chapter, we will explore how these two techniques work together, their specific benefits against acne and the recommended protocols for maximising their effectiveness.
A. Chemical peels: a powerful surface treatment for facial acne
A chemical peel is a procedure that involves applying an acidic solution to exfoliate the surface layers of the skin and stimulate cell renewal. This technique is particularly effective for:
✔️ Remove excess sebum and unclog pores
✔️ Reduce comedones (blackheads, microcysts)
✔️ Reduce post-acne marks and even out skin tone
✔️ Stimulate collagen production to improve skin texture
What types of peels are used to treat acne?
🔹 Salicylic acid peel (BHA):
Ideal for oily and acne-prone skin.
Keratolytic and sebum-regulating action.
Penetrates deep into pores to dissolve sebum and reduce inflammation.
🔹 Fruit acid peel (AHA, such as glycolic or lactic acid):
Exfoliates dead skin cells and improves skin radiance
Anti-blemish effect after acne.
🔹 Azelaic acid peel:
Antibacterial and anti-inflammatory action.
Suitable for sensitive skin prone to redness.
🔹 TCA peel (trichloroacetic acid, low concentration):
Stimulates skin renewal and improves acne scars.
Used for more severe cases of acne or residual scarring
How does a peeling session work?
1️⃣ Cleansing and degreasing.
2️⃣ Application of the peeling agent according to skin type and needs.
3️⃣ Leave on for a few minutes.
4️⃣ Neutralisation and application of a soothing cream.
After the session, the skin may show redness, slight flaking and increased sensitivity. It is essential to apply a moisturising cream and SPF 50 sunscreen.
B. LED light: a gentle and effective treatment to soothe acne
LED phototherapy uses different wavelengths of light to treat acne and promote healing. Unlike aggressive lasers, LED therapy is non-invasive, painless and has no side effects.
The different colours of LEDs and their effects on acne
🔹 Blue LED (415 nm): antibacterial
Destroys Cutibacterium acnes, the bacterium responsible for inflammatory acne.
Reduces sebum production.
Ideal for active acne, red spots and pustules.
🔹 Red LED (630 nm): anti-inflammatory and healing
Stimulates cell regeneration and collagen production.
Reduces redness and accelerates the healing of acne lesions.
Helps reduce scars and post-inflammatory marks.
🔹 Yellow LED (590 nm): restorative and soothing
Improves skin microcirculation.
Ideal for sensitive skin or skin prone to rosacea.
How does an LED session work?
1️⃣ Installation under an LED device for 15 to 30 minutes.
2️⃣ The skin tissue absorbs the light, which penetrates deeply without heating or damaging the tissue.
3️⃣ Result: a gradual reduction in acne inflammation and accelerated skin healing.
🔸 Number of sessions recommended:
Intensive treatment: 2 sessions per week for 1 month.
Maintenance: 1 session per month.
C. Why combine peeling and LED therapy to treat acne?
Combining chemical peels and LED therapy produces a synergistic effect and accelerates the disappearance of acne in a more lasting way.
What are the advantages of this combination?
✅ Exfoliation prepares the skin and optimises LED light penetration.
✅ Enhanced anti-inflammatory effect: exfoliation removes imperfections while LED light calms inflammation and stimulates healing.
✅ Faster and longer-lasting results than a single treatment.
✅ Reduction in scars and blemishes thanks to the action of the peel and red LED.
✅ Suitable for sensitive skin: unlike aggressive treatments, this combination respects the skin’s balance.
Recommended protocol for adult acne
1️⃣ Chemical peel session (every 2 to 4 weeks).
2️⃣ Blue and red LED immediately afterwards to calm inflammation and speed up recovery.
3️⃣ Follow up with appropriate skincare (mild retinoids, niacinamide, moisturiser and SPF 50).
Who can benefit from this combination?
✔️ People with mild to moderate inflammatory acne (red spots, pustules).
✔️ Those with post-acne scars (red or pigmented marks).
✔️ Skin prone to hormonal flare-ups (adult female acne).
✔️ People looking for an effective treatment without serious side effects.
⚠️ This combination may be contraindicated in cases of severe active acne, pregnancy, or specific skin conditions (eczema, psoriasis). A preliminary assessment by a professional is recommended.
The combined treatment of peeling + LED is a modern, effective and non-invasive solution for treating adult acne and blemishes.
Thanks to the action of peeling, the skin is purified, pores are unclogged and cell renewal is stimulated. In addition, LED therapy reduces inflammation, accelerates healing and prevents scarring.
By adopting a personalised protocol, accompanied by a tailored skincare routine, it is possible to achieve a smoother, more even complexion that is permanently free of imperfections. ✨
2. Microneedling to treat acne and blemishes: an effective and innovative solution
Microneedling is an aesthetic medicine technique that is gaining popularity for treating skin problems, including acne scars, enlarged pores, skin irregularities and post-inflammatory spots. By deeply stimulating the dermis, this method improves skin texture and quality, promotes cell regeneration and reduces acne-related imperfections.
Microneedling is a minimally invasive procedure performed using an electric pen equipped with micro-needles that create micro-perforations in the skin. These micro-lesions trigger a natural skin repair process, stimulating:
The production of collagen and elastin, which improve skin elasticity and firmness.
Cell renewal, which smooths out irregularities and reduces acne scars.
Optimised absorption of applied treatments, making serums and active ingredients more effective.
The benefits of microdermabrasion for acne
a) Reduction of acne scars
Microneedling is particularly effective in reducing atrophic (indented) scars caused by inflammatory acne. By stimulating collagen production, it promotes scar filling and gradually smooths the skin’s surface.
b) Refining skin texture and reducing enlarged pores
Acne often leaves the face looking uneven, with enlarged pores and a rough texture. Microneedling helps to tighten pores by boosting cell regeneration and improving skin structure.
c) Improvement of post-inflammatory acne spots
Red or brown marks left by acne can persist for several months. Microneedling accelerates their disappearance by stimulating cell turnover, helping to restore a more even complexion.
d) Sebum regulation and inflammation reduction
When microneedling is combined with purifying and anti-inflammatory active ingredients (such as niacinamide or zinc), it can help reduce excessive sebum production and calm acne inflammation. This makes it an attractive option for skin prone to mild to moderate acne.
How does a microneedling session work?
a) Preliminary consultation
Before treatment, a dermatologist or aesthetic medicine professional assesses the condition of the skin to ensure that microneedling is appropriate. It may not be recommended in cases of severe active acne, skin infections or very sensitive skin.
b) Preparation of the skin
It is carefully cleaned and disinfected.
An anaesthetic cream may be applied to minimise discomfort.
c) Procedure
The practitioner uses a dermapen to create micro-perforations. At Maison Magnifisens, microneedling is performed using the Skin Pen®, which is the gold standard with CE and FDA approval.
A suitable serum (hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, peptides, zinc, etc.) is applied to penetrate deeply and maximise the effects of the treatment.
d) Post-processing and recovery
A slight redness and feeling of warmth may persist for 24 to 48 hours.
The skin may peel slightly in the following days, which is a sign of ongoing cell renewal.
It is essential to avoid exposure to the sun and apply SPF 50 sunscreen to prevent spots.
What precautions should be taken before and after microneedling?
Before the session
✔️ Avoid chemical exfoliants, retinoids, and strong acids one week prior. ✔️ Do not expose yourself to the sun or use artificial tanning methods. ✔️ Do not use irritating treatments to avoid excessive skin sensitivity.
After the session
✔️ Apply a soothing and moisturising cream to calm the skin. ✔️ Use daily sunscreen (SPF 50).
✔️ Avoid make-up and irritating products for 48 hours.
✔️ Do not touch or scratch any areas of flaking or spots.
Who can benefit from microneedling for acne?
✅ People with atrophic (indented) acne scars.
✅ Those who wish to improve their skin texture and reduce enlarged pores. ✅ People suffering from post-acne marks. ✅ Those with a dull or tired complexion who want to stimulate skin renewal.
⚠️ However, microneedling is contraindicated in cases of severe active acne, skin infection, rosacea or healing problems.
How many microneedling sessions are needed for acne?
The number of sessions depends on the type of acne imperfections to be treated:
Superficial scars and enlarged pores: 3 to 4 sessions, spaced one month apart.
Deeper scars and significant irregularities: 5 to 6 sessions may be necessary.
General improvement: one session every 3 to 6 months for maintenance.
The first results are visible after the first session, but a significant improvement can be seen after 2 to 3 months, when collagen production is optimised.
Microneedling can be combined with other treatments for enhanced results:
Chemical peels: to accelerate the removal of dead cells and improve skin radiance.
LED therapy (red or blue light): to soothe inflammation and treat active acne.
Microneedling, a powerful ally against acne blemishes
Microneedling is an effective, non-invasive solution for improving skin texture and quality, reducing acne scars and evening out skin tone. By stimulating natural collagen production and promoting cell renewal, it offers visible, long-lasting results.
However, for optimal effectiveness, it is essential to choose a qualified professional, follow post-treatment precautions and adopt a suitable skincare routine to preserve the benefits of microneedling.
3 Jet Peel®: an innovative treatment for acne and skin imperfections
Adult acne is a persistent skin condition that can be difficult to treat, especially when combined with sensitive skin, chronic inflammation, and post-acne scarring. Among the most promising non-invasive cosmetic treatments, Jet Peel® stands out for its ability to deeply cleanse, moisturise and treat the skin while respecting its natural balance.
This revolutionary treatment uses the power of a high-pressure serum jet to exfoliate the skin, infuse specific active ingredients and stimulate cell renewal. It offers a gentle yet effective solution for reducing acne, regulating sebum production and improving skin texture.
What is Jet Peel®? How does it work?
Jet Peel® is an aesthetic medicine treatment based on the diffusion of a high-pressure jet of air and serum at supersonic speed. Unlike abrasive techniques such as chemical peels or microdermabrasion, this process works without direct contact with the skin, making it particularly suitable even for sensitive skin prone to inflammation.
The Jet Peel facial combines three main actions:
Gentle exfoliation and pore cleansing
Thanks to a spray of glycolic or salicylic acid-based serum, it removes dead cells and impurities accumulated in the pores.
This non-mechanical exfoliation avoids the irritation often caused by scrubs or chemical peels.
Oxygenation and stimulation of microcirculation
The « air jet » effect improves oxygenation of skin cells, thereby promoting the healing of acne lesions.
Stimulated microcirculation helps reduce the redness and inflammation associated with acne.
Deep infusion of specific active ingredients
Jet Peel® allows targeted serums to be infused into the skin, such as hyaluronic acid to moisturise, zinc to regulate sebum, or vitamin C to reduce post-acne marks.
These active ingredients are absorbed into the dermis without the need for needles or injections, ensuring effective and painless penetration.
What are the benefits of Jet Peel® for acne?
The Jet Peel® facial treatment is particularly effective for treating mild to moderate inflammatory acne, oily skin, and post-acne scars and blemishes.
🔹 Reduction in spots and blackheads
Gentle exfoliation removes excess sebum and impurities that cause pores to become blocked.
The antibacterial action of certain serums (such as zinc or salicylic acid) limits the proliferation of Cutibacterium acnes.
🔹 Regulation of sebum production
Jet Peel helps to rebalance the skin by providing sebum-regulating active ingredients.
It helps to mattify and limit the appearance of excessive shine.
🔹 Soothes inflammation and redness
Unlike aggressive treatments, Jet Peel soothes the skin while treating it, reducing the irritation often associated with acne treatments.
The infusion of anti-inflammatory agents such as niacinamide or aloe vera soothes red and reactive areas.
🔹 Reduction of scars and post-acne marks
By stimulating cell renewal, this treatment accelerates the disappearance of red or pigmented marks left by spots.
It improves skin tone uniformity by promoting tissue regeneration.
🔹 Deep hydration without a greasy feel
Unlike some drying treatments, Jet Peel intensely moisturises.
It strengthens the skin barrier, thereby reducing the sensitivity and reactivity of skin tissue.
How does a Jet Peel® facial treatment work?
A Jet Peel® facial treatment lasts an average of 45 minutes and consists of several steps:
1️⃣ Preparing the skin
Gentle make-up removal and cleansing.
2️⃣ High-pressure jet exfoliation
A jet of exfoliating serum is projected at supersonic speed to unclog pores, remove blackheads and eliminate dead skin cells.
3️⃣ Infusion of targeted active ingredients
Depending on requirements, specific active ingredients are infused deep into the skin:
Salicylic acid to purify and treat blackheads and acne spots.
Zinc to regulate sebum production.
Hyaluronic acid to moisturise and strengthen the skin barrier.
Vitamin C to lighten acne scarring.
4️⃣ Soothing and final moisturising
A moisturising and soothing mist is applied to optimise results.
SPF 50 sunscreen is recommended after the session to prevent hyperpigmentation.
How often should Jet Peel® sessions be performed to treat facial acne?
🔹 Initial treatment:
One session per week for three to four weeks for optimal results.
🔹 In conversation:
One session every four to six weeks to maintain the effects and prevent acne recurrence.
The first results are visible after the first session, but significant improvements in acne appear after 3 to 4 sessions, when the skin begins to regenerate completely.
Is Jet Peel® suitable for all types of facial acne?
Jet Peel® is particularly suitable for:
✅ Combination to oily skin prone to acne.
✅ Sensitive skin that cannot tolerate aggressive treatments such as chemical peels.
✅ People with light scarring and pigmentation spots caused by acne.
✅ Those looking for an effective, non-invasive solution that does not require time off work.
⚠️ However, it is less effective on severe cystic acne and deep scars, which require more targeted treatments such as laser or microneedling.
Jet Peel® facial treatment, a gentle and effective alternative for adult acne
Jet Peel® is a revolutionary, non-invasive treatment suitable for acne-prone skin. By combining exfoliation, purification, oxygenation and infusion of targeted active ingredients, it helps to reduce acne, regulate sebum, soothe inflammation and improve skin quality without damaging the epidermis.
Thanks to its deep action without pain or social exclusion, it is an ideal alternative to more aggressive treatments, offering clearer, softer, healthier-looking skin in just a few sessions. ✨
4 HydraFacial® for acne: an ideal maintenance treatment and an effective combination with microneedling, peeling and LED therapy
Adult acne is a complex skin condition that requires a comprehensive approach to be treated effectively. Among the most popular aesthetic treatments, HydraFacial® stands out as a gentle yet powerful treatment that deeply cleanses the skin, moisturises and delivers targeted active ingredients to prevent and reduce acne blemishes on the face and other areas such as the back, arms and buttocks.
HydraFacial® is ideal for maintenance to sustain the results of other treatments such as microneedling, chemical peels and LED phototherapy, forming a comprehensive and effective combination against acne, enlarged pores, post-inflammatory spots and minor scars.
In this article, we will detail the role of Hydrafacial in acne management, its specific benefits, as well as its combination with other aesthetic techniques for a tailor-made protocol.
HydraFacial®: what is it and how does it work on acne?
HydraFacial® is a non-invasive facial treatment that combines several actions in a single session thanks to patented hydrodermabrasion and vacuum suction technology.
It takes place in three key stages:
1️⃣ Cleansing and exfoliation: removal of dead skin cells and sebum clogging the pores through gentle exfoliation using glycolic and salicylic acid.
2️⃣ Extraction and purification: removal of impurities, blackheads and excess sebum without irritation.
3️⃣ Hydration and infusion of active ingredients: application of serums enriched with antioxidants, hyaluronic acid, peptides and anti-inflammatory agents to repair and protect the skin tissue.
Why is HydraFacial® effective against acne?
✔️ Unclogs pores and eliminates blackheads and microcysts
✔️ Regulates sebum production and reduces excessive shine
✔️ Gently exfoliates without irritating, unlike stronger chemical peels
✔️ Provides deep hydration while maintaining the balance of the skin tissue ✔️ Reduces acne inflammation and soothes redness thanks to serums enriched with niacinamide and antioxidants
HydraFacial® is particularly suitable for skin prone to mild to moderate acne and sensitive skin that does not tolerate aggressive treatments well.
HydraFacial® as a maintenance treatment for acne
After undergoing intensive acne treatment (peels, microneedling, LED therapy, or even dermatological treatments), it is essential to adopt a maintenance routine to prevent recurrence.
HydraFacial® can be incorporated into a regular skincare routine:
One session per month to maintain clear skin and prevent new acne breakouts.
As a complement to dermatological treatment (retinoids, topical antibiotics), as it helps to compensate for the dryness and irritation caused by certain medications.
Ideal before a special event to achieve a radiant complexion without social exclusion.
Combine HydraFacial® with other treatments for comprehensive acne management.
Although Hydrafacial® is an excellent treatment for purifying and moisturising the skin, it can be even more effective when combined with other targeted treatments to deeply treat acne, scars and pigmentation spots.
🔹 HydraFacial ® + Chemical peel: a duo to combat acne
Why is this combination effective against acne?
HydraFacial® prepares the skin by removing impurities and facilitating the penetration of the active ingredients in the peel.
The peel works deep down to stimulate cell renewal and reduce acne scars and pigmentation spots.
Ideal for combination to oily skin prone to blackheads and enlarged pores.
Recommended protocol:
1️⃣ HydraFacial® session to exfoliate and deep cleanse.
2️⃣ 1 week later: chemical peel (salicylic acid or mild TCA) to boost cell regeneration.
3️⃣ HydraFacial® maintenance treatment 3-4 weeks later to maintain the effects.
🔹 HydraFacial® + Microneedling: a regenerating combination for acne scars
Why is this combination effective for treating acne?
HydraFacial® hydrates and prepares the skin before a microneedling session, optimising its tolerance and recovery.
Microneedling stimulates collagen production and improves skin texture, and is particularly effective for atrophic scars, spots, and enlarged pores.
This combination repairs the skin deep down while ensuring good hydration and reducing inflammation.
Recommended protocol:
1️⃣ HydraFacial® 1 week before microneedling to purify and hydrate the skin.
2️⃣ Microneedling to stimulate cell renewal and fill in scars.
3️⃣ HydraFacial® 2 to 3 weeks after to soothe the skin and optimise regeneration.
🔹 Hydrafacial® + LED: a gentle combination to soothe inflammation and accelerate healing
Why is this combination ideal for active acne?
Hydrafacia® cleanses the skin and limits bacterial proliferation.
Blue LED light eliminates Cutibacterium acnes and reduces sebum secretion.
Red LED light accelerates healing and reduces redness.
When used together, these two techniques help achieve clearer skin without irritation or side effects.
Recommended protocol:
1️⃣ Hydrafacial® to exfoliate and purify.
2️⃣ Blue LED immediately afterwards for its antibacterial effect.
3️⃣ Red LED in the following days to soothe and stimulate cell regeneration.
Hydrafacial® is an essential treatment for acne-prone skin, particularly as maintenance after more intensive treatments such as peels or microneedling. Thanks to its ability to deeply cleanse, moisturise and soothe without irritating the skin, it helps to maintain healthy, glowing skin all year round.
When combined with techniques such as chemical peels, microneedling and LED phototherapy, it forms part of a comprehensive, tailor-made strategy to reduce acne, improve skin texture and prevent recurrence.
💡 Whether you are treating or maintaining your acne, incorporating Hydrafacial® into your skincare routine is an excellent way to keep your skin clear, balanced and radiant for the long term.
Conclusion
Adult acne is a complex but treatable condition. Thanks to advances in dermatology and aesthetic medicine, it is possible to significantly improve the condition of the skin. It is not inevitable! Do not let acne make you self-conscious; there are solutions. Personalised care, combining dermatological treatments and aesthetic treatments, can achieve visible and lasting results. Feel free to consult a professional at Maison Magnifisens for advice tailored to your skin.
