{"id":17219,"date":"2025-02-11T18:44:00","date_gmt":"2025-02-11T17:44:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/maison-magnifisens.paris\/?p=17219"},"modified":"2026-03-19T19:38:09","modified_gmt":"2026-03-19T18:38:09","slug":"lacne-adulte-comprendre-et-traiter-cette-affection-cutanee-persistante","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/maison-magnifisens.paris\/en\/blog\/lacne-adulte-comprendre-et-traiter-cette-affection-cutanee-persistante\/","title":{"rendered":"Adult acne: understanding and treating this persistent skin condition"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
Long associated with adolescence, acne can nevertheless persist or appear in adulthood, affecting both women and men. Inflammatory spots, blackheads, cysts and painful nodules… the symptoms of adult acne, which can vary in severity regardless of age, can be as embarrassing as they are difficult to treat, with each case being unique. Hormonal factors, stress, pollution, diet and even unsuitable cosmetics: there are many causes and each requires appropriate treatment. Fortunately, advances in aesthetic medicine now offer effective solutions to reduce these imperfections and restore clear, healthy skin. In this article, we explain the causes of adult acne and the best treatments to remedy it.<\/p>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
Teenagers<\/strong>: The increase in androgen hormones during adolescence stimulates sebum production.<\/p>\n Adult women<\/strong>: Hormonal acne can be linked to the menstrual cycle, pregnancy, menopause or polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS). Women of any age can be affected by this skin condition.<\/p>\n Men<\/strong>: Excessive testosterone production can promote the development of acne, which can sometimes be severe.<\/p>\n <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t Sebum is a natural lipid substance produced by the sebaceous glands, located in the dermis at the base of the hair follicles. It plays an essential role in skin health by forming a protective film called the hydrolipidic film. This film preserves skin hydration, protects against external aggressions (pollution, microbes, climatic variations) and contributes to the proper balance of the skin’s flora.<\/p>\n <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t A delicate balance: why must we take care of it?<\/p>\n <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t Although sebum is essential for maintaining supple and resilient skin, its balance is delicate. Insufficient production can lead to dry, fragile skin that is prone to irritation. Conversely, excess sebum can cause skin problems on oily skin, such as acne.<\/p>\n Various factors influence sebum production:<\/p>\n Hormones<\/strong>, particularly androgens, stimulate the activity of the sebaceous glands. This is why adult acne particularly affects women, often in connection with hormonal fluctuations (menstrual cycle, pregnancy, contraception, menopause).<\/p>\n Stress<\/strong>, which promotes the release of cortisol, a hormone that indirectly stimulates sebum secretion.<\/p>\n Diet<\/strong>, with certain foods rich in fast-acting sugars and dairy products that can aggravate sebaceous hyperproduction.<\/p>\n Unsuitable cosmetics<\/strong>, which cause damage by blocking pores, forming comedones, blackheads, spots and even cysts, and disrupting the natural regulation of sebum. Using the wrong cosmetics can cause severe acne.<\/p>\n <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t When the skin produces too much sebum, it becomes thicker and accumulates in the hair follicles. It then mixes with dead cells and impurities, forming a plug that clogs the pores. This blockage creates an ideal environment for the growth of a bacterium naturally present on the skin, Cutibacterium acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes). As this bacterium proliferates, it triggers an inflammatory process, responsible for the red spots, pustules and cysts characteristic of acne.<\/p>\n Excess sebum also promotes the appearance of blackheads (open comedones) and microcysts (closed comedones), which can develop into more severe inflammatory lesions if not treated properly.<\/p>\n <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t To prevent and treat acne caused by excess sebum, it is essential to adopt a suitable skincare routine:<\/p>\n Use mild cleansers<\/strong> to avoid irritating the skin and prevent a rebound effect, which leads to overproduction of sebum, forming blackheads and spots.<\/p>\n Opt for regulating skincare products<\/strong> containing active ingredients such as salicylic acid, zinc or niacinamide, which control sebum production and reduce inflammation. A Hydrafacial is recommended once a month.<\/p>\n Do not use occlusive cosmetics<\/strong>, such as comedogenic oils and overly rich creams, which can cause severe pore blockage and comedones, leading to the appearance of cysts or skin nodules.<\/p>\n Eat a balanced diet<\/strong>, limiting foods with a high glycaemic index and favouring foods rich in antioxidants.<\/p>\n Consult a cosmetic medicine professional<\/strong>, who can recommend suitable treatments such as chemical peels, LED light therapy or Jet Peel to regulate sebum production and improve the quality of your skin according to its type.<\/p>\n <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t By taking care of your sebum and ensuring it remains balanced, you can maintain healthy skin and prevent the appearance of blemishes caused by excess sebum.<\/p>\n Sebum is an oily substance that protects the skin, but in excess, it can clog pores and cause acne. Oily skin is more prone to breakouts.<\/p>\n <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t When the skin does not renew itself properly, dead cells accumulate and cause hair follicles to become blocked, promoting the formation of comedones (blackheads and whiteheads).<\/p>\n Acne is a multifactorial skin condition, often aggravated by an excessive accumulation of dead cells on the surface of the epidermis. This phenomenon, known as hyperkeratinisation, plays a central role in the obstruction of pores and the formation of skin imperfections such as comedones, blackheads and spots. Understanding this mechanism is essential for adopting the right habits, using the right products and preventing the onset of acne.<\/p>\n <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t The skin regenerates naturally through a cycle of cell renewal. Every day, thousands of skin cells die and are gradually eliminated, leaving room for new, healthy cells. This process, which lasts an average of 28 days<\/strong>, helps to keep the skin smooth and radiant.<\/p>\n However, this mechanism can be disrupted by various factors:<\/p>\n Hormonal imbalances, which stimulate excessive production of keratinocytes (skin cells), leading to abnormal accumulation of dead cells.<\/p>\n Excess sebum<\/strong>, which sticks dead cells together and prevents their natural elimination.<\/p>\n Stress and fatigue<\/strong>, which slow down the skin renewal process.<\/p>\n Exposure to pollution<\/strong>, which promotes oxidation and the accumulation of impurities on the skin’s surface every day.<\/p>\n Inappropriate or insufficient skincare<\/strong>, such as overly aggressive cleansing or a lack of exfoliation, which prevents the removal of dead skin cells.<\/p>\n <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t When dead cells accumulate in excess on the surface of the skin, they clog pores<\/strong> and prevent sebum from flowing normally. This blockage leads to the formation of open comedones<\/strong> (blackheads) and closed comedones<\/strong> (microcysts).<\/p>\n In an environment where sebum is trapped beneath the skin’s surface, a naturally occurring bacterium, Cutibacterium acnes, proliferates and triggers an inflammatory reaction. This is how red spots, pustules, nodules and painful cysts appear.<\/p>\n <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t To avoid clogging pores and limiting the appearance of acne, it is essential to adopt a suitable skincare routine:<\/p>\n <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t Gentle and effective cleaning<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n It is important to use a soap-free cleanser, suitable for acne-prone skin, to remove impurities without damaging the skin barrier.<\/p>\n Choose cleansers for oily skin that contain salicylic acid or zinc, which help to purify pores, remove blackheads and regulate excess sebum.<\/p>\n Exfoliation removes dead skin cells and unclogs pores and blackheads.<\/p>\n Choose chemical exfoliants (fruit acids, glycolic acid, salicylic acid) over mechanical exfoliants (grainy scrubs), which can be too harsh and cause further inflammation.<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n Keratolytic treatments for renewal<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n Incorporate skincare products containing active ingredients such as glycolic acid, lactic acid or retinol, which promote cell renewal and prevent excessive accumulation of dead skin cells.<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n Appropriate hydration<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n Using a light, non-comedogenic cream is important for maintaining skin balance and preventing compensatory sebum overproduction.<\/p>\n \u00a0<\/p>\n Aesthetic medicine treatments<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n Treatments such as chemical peels, microdermabrasion, or LED light therapy can help deeply exfoliate the skin and prevent the accumulation of dead cells.<\/p>\n <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t By adopting these habits and ensuring optimal cell renewal, it is possible to limit the appearance of acne and regain a clearer, more even complexion without blackheads, cysts, skin nodules or spots.<\/p>\n <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t Adult acne is a multifactorial skin condition involving several biological processes. Among these, inflammation and bacterial proliferation play a key role in the formation of acne lesions. One of the main bacteria involved is Cutibacterium acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes), a microorganism that is naturally present on the skin. When it proliferates excessively, it contributes to the onset of inflammatory reactions responsible for the redness, inflamed spots and cystic lesions or nodules typical of adult acne.<\/p>\n In this chapter, we will explore the role of this bacterium, the mechanisms of skin inflammation, and the important solutions to be adapted to each case in order to control this inflammatory and bacterial response.<\/p>\n <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t Cutibacterium acnes is a Gram-positive anaerobic bacterium that forms part of the skin microbiota. It is naturally present in hair follicles and feeds mainly on sebum. Under normal circumstances, it plays a beneficial role in helping to maintain a healthy microbiological balance.<\/p>\n However, under certain conditions, this bacterium can become pathogenic and trigger an inflammatory process, particularly when it proliferates excessively in an environment conducive to its development.<\/p>\n <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t a) Follicle obstruction and bacterial proliferation<\/strong><\/p>\n When the sebaceous glands produce excess sebum and dead cells accumulate in the follicle, a kerato-seborrhoeic plug forms. This anaerobic (oxygen-poor) microenvironment promotes the proliferation of Cutibacterium acnes, which develops and colonises the blocked pores. Lesions such as spots, cysts or nodules may appear.<\/p>\n b) Production of inflammatory substances<\/strong><\/p>\n Once established, C. acnes<\/em> produces enzymes (lipases, proteases, hyaluronidases) that break down sebum into free fatty acids. These are highly irritating<\/strong> and damage the hair follicle wall, making the skin more vulnerable to external aggressions.<\/p>\n The bacterium also releases factors, such as antimicrobial peptides and exopolysaccharides, which activate local immune cells.<\/p>\n c) Activation of the immune system<\/strong><\/p>\n The body detects the presence of the bacterium and its toxins via innate immunity receptors (Toll-like receptors, TLR). This triggers the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines (IL-1, IL-8, TNF-\u03b1) and the recruitment of immune cells (neutrophils, macrophages).<\/p>\n This process causes:<\/p>\n Vasodilation and increased permeability of skin capillaries \u2192 redness and swelling.<\/p>\n Activation of neutrophils<\/strong>, which release destructive enzymes and free radicals \u2192 damage to surrounding tissue.<\/p>\n The formation of lesions such as pustules and nodules, which can develop into scarring lesions in the event of an excessive immune system reaction.<\/p>\n <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t Adult acne has certain characteristics that distinguish it from teenage acne:<\/p>\n Chronic low-grade inflammation<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n In adults, it is more widespread and persistent, causing red, painful spots or papules mainly on the jaw, chin and cheeks.<\/p>\n This phenomenon is linked to increased immune system reactivity<\/strong>, particularly under the influence of hormonal fluctuations and oxidative stress. Increased resistance to conventional treatments<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n C. acnes<\/em> can develop antibiotic resistance mechanisms<\/strong>, making it more difficult to eliminate with conventional topical or oral treatments. A different immune response<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n Some studies suggest that adults with acne have a genetic predisposition to hyperactivation of immune receptors<\/strong>.<\/p>\n <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t a) Regulate bacterial proliferation<\/strong><\/p>\n Antibacterial agents<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n Benzoyl peroxide: a powerful oxidising agent that reduces bacterial load.<\/p>\n Retinoids (tretinoin, adapalene): regulate cell renewal and prevent pore blockage.<\/p>\n Exfoliating acids (salicylic acid, glycolic acid): promote the elimination of dead cells and reduce the environment conducive to the proliferation of C. acnes.<\/p>\n Skin probiotics<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n Some research suggests that the application of prescribed probiotics may help rebalance the skin microbiota and limit the excessive growth of C. acnes.<\/p>\n b) Reduce skin inflammation<\/strong><\/p>\n Soothing treatments to prescribe<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n Niacinamide: a powerful anti-inflammatory that reduces redness and skin reactivity.<\/p>\n Zinc: regulates sebaceous gland activity and limits the production of inflammatory cytokines.<\/p>\n Thermal water and plant extracts (chamomile, centella asiatica): soothe inflammatory reactions.<\/p>\n Advanced medical treatments prescribed<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n Blue and red LED light<\/strong>: kills C. acnes<\/em> and reduces inflammation without side effects.<\/p>\n Chemical peels<\/strong>: help exfoliate the skin and reduce hyperkeratinisation.<\/p>\n Isotretinoin (Roaccutane)<\/strong>: for severe acne, this treatment drastically reduces sebum production and limits bacterial proliferation.<\/p>\n <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t Inflammation and bacterial proliferation play a central role in adult acne. Cutibacterium acnes, although a natural component of the skin microbiota, can become pathogenic when it develops in an obstructed, sebum-rich environment. The inflammatory response of the immune system, which is exacerbated in some adults, leads to the formation of persistent and sometimes painful lesions such as cysts and nodules.<\/p>\n Thanks to advances in dermatology and aesthetic medicine, there are many solutions available to regulate this inflammation, limit bacterial proliferation and restore healthier skin. Appropriate, personalised care is essential for treating adult acne effectively and sustainably.<\/p>\n <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t Acne is a multifactorial skin condition influenced by environmental factors as well as genetic factors. Numerous studies have shown that heredity plays a major role in susceptibility to developing acne, particularly in adult women and men.<\/p>\n Some people are more predisposed than others to suffer from acne due to genetic mutations that influence sebum production, skin cell keratinisation, inflammation and the immune response to Cutibacterium acnes. This chapter explores the links between genetics and acne, as well as solutions for better managing this predisposition.<\/p>\n <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t Epidemiological studies have shown a strong correlation between acne and family history<\/strong>.<\/p>\n Increased risk if parents have acne<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n A person whose one of whose parents<\/strong> suffered from acne is three to four times more likely<\/strong> to develop it themselves.<\/p>\n When both parents have had acne, the likelihood is even higher.<\/p>\n The case of twins and heredity<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n Research on cases of monozygotic (identical) twins<\/strong> has shown a high concordance<\/strong> in the development of acne, suggesting a strong genetic influence.<\/p>\n These observations indicate that certain specific genes influence susceptibility to acne<\/strong> and its progression, particularly in adulthood.<\/p>\n <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t a) Genes regulating sebum production<\/strong><\/p>\n CYP1A1 gene<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n Associated with the activation of androgen hormones, which are responsible for stimulating the sebaceous glands.<\/p>\n A variation in this gene could lead to overproduction of sebum, promoting pore blockage.<\/p>\n G\u00e8ne SEBP1<\/strong><\/span> (Sebaceous Gland Differentiation and Lipogenesis Pathway<\/em>)<\/p>\n Involved in regulating the activity of the sebaceous glands.<\/p>\n Overexpression leads to sebum hyperactivity<\/strong> and an environment conducive to the development of acne. b) Genes involved in keratinisation<\/strong><\/p>\n FLG gene<\/span> (Filaggrin)<\/strong><\/p>\n Plays a role in the structure of the skin barrier.<\/p>\n Mutations in the FLG gene cause poor exfoliation of dead cells<\/strong>, contributing to pore blockage.<\/p>\n KRT75 gene<\/span> (Keratin 75)<\/strong><\/p>\n Involved in the rigidity of skin cells and the formation of hair follicles.<\/p>\n A mutation can cause excessive keratinisation, increasing the risk of comedone formation. c) Genes involved in immune response and inflammation<\/strong><\/p>\n HLA genes<\/span> (Major histocompatibility complex)<\/strong><\/p>\n Regulate the immune response against Cutibacterium acnes.<\/p>\n Certain genetic variations increase susceptibility to bacterial infections and excessive inflammatory reactions.<\/p>\n TNF-\u03b1 gene<\/span> (Tumour Necrosis Factor Alpha)<\/strong><\/p>\n Responsible for the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines.<\/p>\n Excessive expression leads to chronic inflammation, explaining why some people develop more severe and persistent acne.<\/p>\n <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t2. Sebum: an essential ally, but sometimes problematic<\/h4>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
Excess sebum: a breeding ground for acne<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
How can sebum production be regulated?<\/h4>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
3. Acne and dead cell build-up: a key factor in pore blockage<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
Cell renewal and elimination of dead cells<\/h4>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
When dead cells clog pores: the formation of acne<\/h4>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
How can you prevent dead skin cells from accumulating and limit acne?<\/h4>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
Regular exfoliation<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n4. Bacteria and inflammation in adult acne: a complex mechanism<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
a). Cutibacterium acnes bacteria: a key player in adult acne<\/h4>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
b). How does Cutibacterium acnes trigger inflammation?<\/h4>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
c). Why is inflammation more pronounced in adult women and men?<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
<\/p>\n
<\/p>\nd). How can inflammation and bacterial proliferation associated with acne be controlled?<\/h4>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
5. Genetic factors and acne: a hereditary predisposition?<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
A well-established familial predisposition to acne<\/h4>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
Which genes are involved in acne?<\/h4>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
<\/p>\n
<\/p>\nAdult acne and genetics: differences compared to adolescence<\/h4>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t